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EAST HIGHLAND WAY 

Distance - 82 miles 

Location - Aviemore to Fort William, Scotland 

August 2020

Itinerary 

Day 1 - Aviemore to Kingussie

Day 2 - Kingussie to Pattack Falls

Day 3 - Pattack Falls to Moy Bridge 

Day 4 - Moy Bridge to Spean Bridge

Day 5 - Spean Bridge to Fort William

The week before starting the East Highland Way (EHW), we conquered Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in the UK (1,345 metres above sea level), followed by the Great Glen way, walking from Fort William to Inverness. We felt ready to tackle the EHW with a week of walking under our belts. 

 

Day 1 - Aviemore to Kingussie

We took the first train leaving Inverness to Aviemore, which took approx. 40 mins, arriving around 10.30am. In August 2020 we had to book our tickets in advance due to Covid guidelines as capacity was drastically reduced due to social distancing. The last time we were in Aviemore, we were there for winter weather training, and there was heavy snowfall.

 

We had read that the start of the East Highland Way was at the Speyside way marker at the train station, however, we couldn’t find it. So, wanting to get on our way we left Aviemore around 10.45 am, heading south towards Rothiemurchus Visitor Centre. Walking away from Aviemore, away from the crowds, the path took us through forests with a floor of heather which smelt divine.

 

Leaving the forest path, turning left at Milton Cottage, there was a short road walk towards Loch an Eilein. At this point it got very busy, with a string of cars heading towards the car park. The Loch an Eilein is home to castle ruins abandoned in the water. It was a magnificent sight. We had read that Ospreys had been sighted on the ruins.

 

Following the path around the loch we soon realised we had missed our turning, backtracking we took the correct turning which soon became a much smaller, unkept, quieter path. After approx. 10km we came across Drake’s Bothy, a handy shelter for those in need. Also, an excellent place to camp.

 

The path widened onto forest tracks, just be careful to take the right track. The path soon met the road which took us across Feshiebridge, which is grade 2 listed. Below the water was raging water, meandering across the sharp rock formation.

 

The route takes you by the Frank Bruce sculpture trail, some interesting creations. After leaving the trail we came across our first East Highland Way sign, at least we knew we were heading in the right direction.

 

We took a break at Lock Insh close to the Watersports Centre, taking the opportunity to look at the map and see where we could possibly wild camp, seeing few places. We set our eyes on Kingussie and took a sneaky look for a hotel, and we were in luck, there was a room available. At the time it felt like we were making excuses, but if the option is available, we are of course going to take a lovely comfortable hotel room.

 

With the knowledge that we had a hotel to look forward to we pushed onto Kingussie. From Loch Insh to Ruthven Barracks we followed the Badenloch way, which was very well signposted. The path became quite narrow, lined with heather, before going back into the forest.

 

As we continued walking, we kept an eye out for possible wild camping spots (this quickly became an obsession!) and there were very few places for our size tent, so it seemed liked we had made a good decision.

 

After crossing Tromie Bridge the path takes you through a RSPB nature trail, however we couldn’t enter due to a very large horse and pony standing at the gate, so we chose just to follow the road, which was fine. Following the path next to the road we could soon see the Ruthven Barracks, standing grand on the hilltop.

 

We arrived at the Duke of Gordan hotel in Kingussie around 7pm and it was like stepping back in time. We took full advantage of our stay and had dinner in the hotel bar. Day one was a very long day, covering close to 20 miles.

Day 2 - Kingussie to Pattack Falls

 

After a reasonable nights rest we had breakfast at the hotel before getting on our way. There is a slight ascent away from the centre of Kingussie towards a caravan site.

 

This section was quite rocky under foot, glad we were relatively fresh to concentrate over this type of terrain.

Making slow progress the path runs along the south side of Loch Gynack, however it doesn’t go to the shore of the loch.

 

The path becomes wide and easy to navigate before descending towards Newtonmore on the ‘Wildcat’ path. We took a quick pitstop at the Coop in Newtonmore. You know you are ‘hiker trash’ when you sit on the curb in a supermarket car park with everything you own in the bag next to you.

 

We ascended away from Newtonmore on the road which soon became very quiet and felt like we were walking away from civilisation. We had read that the next section could be boggy, thankfully we had had fairly good weather the days prior, so we were hopeful. We had also read that there wasn’t much of a trail after a certain point, however we were following the water to the left, so we couldn’t go too wrong.

 

After passing a few abandoned buildings, we soon found ourselves in no path land, however, it was good underfoot. It wasn’t long before we knew we had spoken too soon, and it became very boggy. Keeping the water to our left we made slow progress. We knew we would have to cross the stream at Dalnashallag bothy, which was just coming into view. Note, this is not to be confused with the derelict bothy to the right. By this point our feet were wet, which made progress slightly easier as we weren’t too bothered about avoiding the wet soggy sections. Thankfully the water level was low, which made crossing the water relatively easy.

 

Dalnashallag bothy, a haven to those in need, below the doorframe hung rabbit feet, and on entering we were hit by the strong smell of burning wood. We made ourselves at home on the bench outside, admiring the view, a perfect stop for lunch.

 

From here there was a stone path which led towards the A86. We were supposed to turn off towards the right-hand corner of a forest, however being slightly elevated the ground looked extremely boggy, so we decided to continue the path we were on and walk along the road to rejoin the route. It was a fairly quiet road, so it wasn’t too bad.

 

We walked on the road to Laggan, then made the turn towards Spey Reservoir. By this point, we were both flagging, and the sun was starting to fall. We were hopeful we would find somewhere to camp in the forest that lay ahead. However, I had read that Pattack Falls was a known place to wild camp, so we also had this in the back of our minds.

 

Sadly, we didn’t get to see the Dam or the Reservoir, the path didn’t quite go that far. As we headed into the forest it was good track and very easy to follow. There were a handful of places for us to camp, but we kept pushing on as we still had daylight on our side. We agreed we would stop at Pattack Falls, and as we crossed the road, I knew we didn’t have far to go.

 

On reaching Pattack falls, we were much higher up than anticipated and didn’t see any of the falls. By this point, we were starting to lose daylight and we were desperate to find somewhere to camp. We didn’t have the legs to walk back on ourselves at this point. So just before the bridge to the left-hand side of the path we found a decent area of flat ground with little foliage, where we pitched our tent for the night.

 

In hindsight, we should have applied common sense and realised that the camping areas would be towards the base of the waterfall, however this thought just didn’t cross our minds.

 

This was our first night wild camping on the EHW and the midges were out in force, we certainly hadn’t missed them.

 

With a few aches from a very long tiring day, we finally put our heads to our pillows.

Day 3 - Pattack Falls to Moy Bridge
 

After a slightly restless night, feeling the aches and pains and being overtired, we woke around 7am by our alarm. We both didn’t want to get out of bed as it was rather chilly, we guessed ~ 4°C. The top canopy of our tent was wet with morning dew, it took a whole lot of willpower to get going.

 

We are confident no one walked past us during the night or early in the morning, we had found a very quiet spot, the only noise came from the trees behind us. Overall, we found the trail itself to be very quiet, up until this point we hadn’t come across any other walkers

 

Today we planned to be a much shorter day, having read that there was a small beach at the south end of Loch Laggan, approximately 11 miles.

 

After we had packed up the tent and our belongings, we had breakfast and coffee. Once again, the head net came in handy as the midges were out in full force.

 

By this point we were quite desperate for water, unfortunately, we couldn’t get down to the water from the bridge, as it was all closed off, plus the bank was too steep to even attempt. So, finding water was our number one priority.

 

We left camp, crossed the bridge and headed up through a narrow forest track. This then became a very overgrown track of long grass, which was lovely and wet seeping into our shoes and socks. What a way to start the day!

 

We then came to a locked gate, so we had no option but to climb over it. We came across an entrance to a path leading down to River Pattack, where we stopped to stock up on water. 

 

Happy to have water, we headed up towards Sawmill, continuing on the forest track which would lead to Loch Laggan. Today we were taking our time, enjoying the walk and soaking in our surroundings. As we were strolling along, we came across a very large rock with a perfect seat shape, it would have been rude not to stop for a break. We took the opportunity to have some lunch and dry our tent.

 

The route takes you alongside the loch for a few miles before catching sight of the beach at the south side of the loch. We reached the beach around 3pm, having covered approximately 11 miles, which is very relaxed for us.

 

There was an intermittent signal along the loch, which was quite nice just to switch off our mobiles and enjoy. Once we had set up our tent, we started to hear the roar of a large plane, we then witnessed a Hercules plane flying low through the valley, such an incredible moment. We spent the remainder of the afternoon napping and enjoying the beach, which at that point we had all to ourselves. A solo hiker pitched up their tent slightly later.

Day 4 - Moy Bridge to Spean Bridge

 

Waking up by the loch was just bliss, we had enjoyed a peaceful night’s rest and allowed our bodies to recharge for another full day ahead of us.

 

The weather was a little drizzly, so we quickly packed away and got our belongings together. We filtered water before heading off on our way which was around 8.30am. Yesterday we saw very few people, so it was a bit of a surprise when we met another hiker close to Moy Bridge.

 

We walked up yet another forest track, with views of the reservoir to the right. A little caution is required as there are workers with heavy machinery, so just be careful and pay attention.

 

We came across a high fence and gate that at first glance we thought was bolted and locked, we must have spent a good 5-10 mins trying to get through this gate, looking at the map for alternative routes, before we took another look and opened it no problem … doh! They would have to be very clever deer to pass through the gate!

 

We continued through the farm and past Fersit, then joined a road which rounded An Dubh Lochan. We stopped at the north end of the water, a decent place to wild camp (size of tent depending), however it is close to the road, so maybe a stealth camp. Taking the opportunity to dip our feet in the cold water and enjoy some dinner.

 

From here it’s a road walk to Inverlair lodge, which it is said to have been used during World War II, and was known as No 6 Special Workshop School, part of the Inter Services Research Bureau.

 

There is a short, very steep section taking yet another forest track. The track then descends into an overgrown track before reaching Allt nam Bruach stream. Fording the stream was a breeze as the water levels were very low, thankfully. Pleased to have crossed the stream without any mishaps we weren’t paying attention and continued, thinking we were going the right way, but we soon found ourselves in a bit of a dead end. We spent quite a bit of time walking back and forth, before getting back on track. From crossing the stream, the route is straight ahead, do not detour. There isn’t much of a path though so navigate as best you can. If you walk past some ruins, you are heading in the right direction.

 

Once at the end of the field, another overgrown track leads up to a farm. By this point the heavens had opened and we were in the middle of a torrential downpour. The gates on the far side of the farm were heavily padlocked, so we had no option but to climb over. It is disappointing that people lock access gates when they are public footpaths.

 

From here we followed the farm track towards Insh farm. At Insh farm just take note to walk to the left for a short distance before taking the next path on the right. Watch out for the cattle. This track then became a minor road, and at this point we were both getting a little tired, so we picked up our spirits with a little sing song.

 

Due to the bad weather, we had chose to book a room for the evening at Spean Bridge, which was a short distance away from the EHW trail. The road leading up towards Spean Bridge felt never-ending but we eventually got there.

 

We stayed at the Milton Spean Bridge hotel, which was very basic, but ideal for the night. There was a Spar shop next door, so we stocked up on snacks and enjoyed a lovely home-cooked meal in the hotel bar. The craziest thing was that they had put a bright green exit sign in the bedroom, so we had to engineer a cover to dull the brightness.

We are glad we had booked a room as there were very few places leading up to Spean Bridge that we felt comfortable with, that didn’t look like private land or close to roads and homes.

Day 5 - Spean Bridge to Fort William

 

Final day of walking the EHW and we took our time getting ourselves ready before setting off around 9am. Close to Spean Bridge is a Commando Memorial, however it was over a mile or so in the opposite direction, so we decided against it. We always fail to allow additional time/ days to venture off route, something we need to work on! It was forecast to rain to some degree for most of the day, but we were well kitted out in our waterproofs.

 

Joining the route we walked through Leanachan Forest, seeing a few possible spots where we could have wild camped. After the forest the route takes you through an overgrown grassy path. Within seconds our feet and socks were soaked, plus it was slightly slippy underfoot, this for me was the most least enjoyable section of the whole route. This path continued for roughly a mile before the path improved and widened, running parallel to the railway line.

 

We passed our first sign pointing towards Fort Willaim, which lifted our spirits, the end was near. The route runs close to the Nevis Range Mountain biking and ski centre, which is where it began to get a little busier. We had gone days with seeing only a handful of people, it always feels strange coming back towards civilisation.

 

As we passed North Face car park, we saw lots of people, walking, running, cycling, a hub of activity. This also meant that the paths became busy, some were also very wet and muddy. Having to stop for cyclists etc was a little annoying as the tracks became quite narrow, thankfully we were on this section for approximately one mile.

 

We got our first glimpse of Fort Willaim through the treeline, we were edging closer and closer. The route takes you around the back of a Lochaber aluminium Smelter, very industrial. With only a few miles remaining the route comes along main roads, past retail parks at which point the heaviest rain started to descend on us, typical!

 

In hindsight, we should have stopped in one the shops and took shelter, but not knowing how long the rain would last, we trooped on towards the centre of Fort William. It is always sad when a walk ends in the rain, unable to savour or enjoy the moment.

 

The end of the EHW was at the finish of the West Highland Way at the end of the main high street, a walk we had done a few times.

 

We had thankfully parked our car close by, so we quickly chucked everything in the car and sheltered from the rain. By this point we were tired, cold and wet, but so glad to have finished another epic walk. But boy did our feet hurt.

 

Taking a well-deserved rest, we sat in the car for a little while for the rain to stop before getting an obligatory picture at the finish.

 

 

Travel to and from

  • We drove to Fort William before commencing the Great Glen Way. We stayed at the Nevis Bank Hotel. The hotel offered long stay parking for no additional fee, which is where we left our car.

 

Accommodation

  • The night prior to commencing the East Highland Way we stayed in Inverness at the Pentahotel.

  • Day 1 - Duke of Gordan Hotel, Kingussie

  • Day 2 - Wild camped close to Pattack Falls

  • Day 3 - Wild camped at the south end of Loch Laggan

  • Day 4 - Milton Spean Bridge Hotel, Spean Bridge

  • Day 5 - Cruachan Hotel, Fort William.

 

Amenities

  • There were few amenities/ places to buy supplies, therefore we would recommend taking what you need. 

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