SOUTH DOWNS WAY
Distance - 100 miles
Location - Winchester to Eastbourne, England
September - October 2020
Itinerary
Day 1 - Winchester to The Sustainability Centre, 20.5 miles
Day 2 - The Sustainability Centre to South Harting, 10.5 miles
Day 3 - South Harting to Amberley, 21 miles
Day 4 - Amberley to Truleigh Hill, 15 miles
Day 5 - Truleigh Hill to Housedean Farm, 14.5 miles
Day 6 - Housedean Farm to Alfriston, 14.5 miles
Day 7 - Alfriston to Eastbourne, 11 miles
Day 1 - Winchester to The Sustainability Centre, 20.5 miles
The official start of the South Downs way is at the National Trust Winchester City Mill on Bridge Street, a short walk from the city centre. Unfortunately, the site was closed however the sign can just be seen behind the fence.
We started the South Down Way on a Sunday so the town centre was relatively quiet however there were a lot of dog walkers and runners around. Within a few miles, we had walked over the A3 and away from Winchester into green fields. The trail snakes up to reveal beautiful views over the surrounding area, albeit it was very windy and exposed.
Before setting off on the SDW we had read that there were plenty of water sources, and we soon came across our first tap located just outside a house.
We soon found ourselves walking up Beacon Hill to the trig point. A short distance away from the trig we found the beacon which was erected to commemorate Queen Elizabeth’s Diamond Jubilee in 2014. Walking down from the beacon the views were breath-taking, a display of every shade of green.
We passed through the small village of Exton, before making the walk up to Old Winchester Hill. The route takes you around to the side of the hill before a short sharp ascent to a 3,000-year-old iron age hill fort just to the left of the path. It’s worth taking a look!
The trail heads in the direction of the car park then descending towards Meon Springs. Meon Springs is approx. 16 miles along trail and looked like a great place to camp. By this point, we were starting to feel the miles, taking little and often breaks just to ease the throbbing feet.
The next part of the trail felt torturous walking up a section of chalk path which had been partially eroded by water leaving a channel to walk up.
As the path met the road, we had finally reached our destination for the day, The Sustainability Centre. The site used to be a naval communications training base, however, it had been transformed into an eco haven.
On arrival the facility was closed however we had been left with instructions. The camping facilities were fabulous with composting toilets and a solar shower block. It was a beautiful quiet place to camp surrounded by woodland.
Tip: At the sustainability Centre there is a tap on the side of the building for walkers/ cyclists on the SDW. There is also a cafe on site however check opening times.
Day 2 - The Sustainability Centre to South Harting, 10.5 miles
After a very peaceful night’s sleep, we had a leisurely start, knowing today would be a short day with only 10 miles to get to South Harting.
We were starting to realise just how undulating the SDW trail actually is, constantly walking up and down the rolling hills. We started the day with a walk up to Butser Hill. Coming down from Butser Hill we had amazing views down to the A3 across to the Queen Elizabeth Country Park. This section is quite steep, watch out for the cyclists taking advantage of gravity!
We took our time, taking every opportunity to stop, take photos, rest and enjoy the sunshine.
The trail goes under the A3 and comes out close to the Queen Elizabeth Country Park visitors centre and car park. We decided to stop here for lunch, a lovely place to stop. Just at the back of the visitors centre café there is a water tap and bike tools.
Getting back on the trail we walked up into the forest. The park is really popular so watch out for cyclists! We walked through the country park for several miles before leaving the park, it soon became a short road walk which turned into a track.
Our accommodation for the evening was in the small village of South Harting which is approx. 0.6 miles off-trail. It was easy to navigate away from the trail to the village, albeit downhill (there is a theme starting to reoccur!). We arrived at the village at around 3 pm, just in time for check-in!
We stayed at The White Hart pub which was lovely. Of course, we took advantage of the pub food and beverages! The room we stayed in was in an annex at the back of the main building. It was lovely and cosy, just what we needed.
The village has a small shop where we stocked up on snacks and lunch for the next day.
Day 3 - South Harting to Amberley, 21 miles
Our stay at The White Hart was very comfortable, just what we needed before another 20-mile day. We love to camp, but we also value a good nights sleep in a proper bed.
Setting off early before 8 am (early for us anyway!) we made the short walk to get back on the trail, getting the heart rate up with a cheeky climb. We did consider taking a short cut by walking along the road to meet the trail slightly further on, however glad we didn't as it was quite a busy, narrow road so we wouldn't recommend doing this.
We soon found ourselves on Harting Downs as the morning mist was beginning to clear, even with the mist the views were stunning. The trail goes around Beacon Hill (yes, another 'Beacon Hill'!), going up and over did cross our minds, but we stayed true to the trail.
The path then becomes slightly more enclosed, lined with trees. There is a perfect rest stop at the turning to Devil's Jumps and of course, we stopped for a morning snack break. It's all about the snacks after all!
The trail descends down to meet the A286 where you can turn off to go to Cocking. We passed Manor farm campsite close to the junction. Here there was also a tap and a farm shop.
For lunch, we walked a short distance away from the trail to sit and enjoy the views from one of the trig points.
Back on the trail, we heard the unmistakable sound of a chinook helicopter which flew overhead, a pretty cool sight, close enough to see the aircrew.
Walking up towards Sutton Down the field to the right was full of sunflowers, shame we had missed prime sunflower season, however. One to watch out for if you time it right.
As the hours ticked by we were getting closer to Amberley where we would be staying for the night. Take care when crossing the A29. From here the path provides a lovely view of the village of Haughton and Amberley. After crossing the river then the railway we had arrived at our destination, Foxleigh Barn which as right on the trail.
Foxleigh Barn is run by Lin and Pete who were both lovely, very kind and welcoming. The campsite was flat and spacious, with two shower and toilet facilities which were very clean and well kept. There was a kitchen/ lounge area with all the amenities including a TV and hairdryer (if you are like me with long hair, being able to dry your hair on the trail is awesome!). There was also a few washing lines both outside and undercover. They had a small list of toiletry products available for purchase, everything from tissues to plasters! We would highly recommend staying here if you are thinking of camping.
For food, we ordered takeaway from the Cottage Tandoori with a few extra naans for the following day. The food was great but allow a minimum of an hour for it to arrive.
Day 4 - Amberley to Truleigh hill - 15 miles
Setting off slightly later than we had planned we started our walk on an incline away from Amberley passing, Rackham hill, Springhead hill, Kithurst Hill and Barnsfarm Hill.
We headed down towards Washington, however, the trail does not go through Washington which is a short distance away (maybe half a mile).
The route takes you along the ridgeline, which was quite exposed, however, we had amazing views in all directions including glimpses of the sea.
As we edged closer to Bramber there was a perfectly placed bench where we stopped to have lunch. Lunch consisted of leftover naan from our Indian takeaway the previous night. From the bench, we could see the radio station in the distance which is close to where we were going to be staying. It seemed so close, however, we had many more miles to cover.
Lunch was a short one, with the threat of rain approaching. Just before we got to the pig farm it started to pour down, scrambling to put on our waterproofs. The rain passed as quickly as it came, giving us a chance to look at all of the little piggies.
At Botolphs there is a small amount of road walking, but be mindful of cars as its a narrow, bendy road.
We were soon treated to another downpour as we crossed River Adur having to take shelter underneath some trees. Worth noting there is another tap here.
As the rain eased we pushed on knowing we had a long steady climb ahead of us to reach the YHA. The path takes you through a field before joining the road, which I will warn you goes on forever (or so it felt).
With the hope of reaching the YHA before the next shower was wishful thinking feeling the full brunt of the wind and rain as we made slow progress along the exposed road.
The YHA is directly on the trail with both tap and bike facilities available at the entrance. The actual main building was closed due to a private booking to house key workers during the Covid pandemic, therefore, we only had access to the camping shower and toilet block. We had hoped to be able to access the dry room however we were told that even if the main building was open the dry room would be closed due to covid restrictions.
They were able to offer food and snacks via their upstairs kitchen window, which was more than adequate. With pizza on the menu, snacks and beers it was turning in to be a good night, making up for the soggy weather.
The campsite is just to the rear of the building which we thought was quite sheltered however by around 9 pm the weather had picked up and we were both lying wide awake listening to the howling winds, hoping the tent wouldn't fail!
Thankfully the weather did ease off later in the evening, allowing us to get some sleep.
Day 5 - Truleigh hill to Housedean Farm - 14.5 miles
Having been woken up by fellow campers we were up bright and early! We had pre-ordered bacon rolls and coffee the night before, which was a welcome break from breakfast bars. Taking our time to pack away the tent, allowing it to dry off as much as possible before packing it away.
Walking past the radio station and over Edburton hill, we found this day of the hike to be quite undulating.
By 10 am we were at Devil's Dyke, wow what a view! When we arrived, there were a number of paragliders enjoying the fairly calm weather. It is quite a popular place with many people arriving with their families to go for a walk. There is a pub here so if you are passing around lunchtime or later in the day it might be a good place to stop for food.
We were naturally drawn to the views, watching the paragliders, drifting slightly off-trail. But the path was easy to find with the help of a map close to the car park.
Our morning was consumed with the threat and worry of a yellow weather warning due to descend on the country in the early hours of the following morning, so we made the wise decision to call ahead and upgrade our camping pitch to a camping pod. With the knowledge that we had a night of glamping to look forward to our minds relaxed.
The trail then takes you past Saddlecombe, we stopped here at the National Trust cafe. A lovely little stop with a bohemian, cottage garden feel.
After filling up on cake and coffee we set off again walking uphill (of course!) then down towards Pyecombe. The route takes you up and over the busy road with the option to walk off route to Pyecombe. We contemplated taking a detour to the petrol station which had an M&S food, but decided to push on instead. Apart from the National Trust site, this was the only other opportunity to get food.
The path then passes through the middle of Pyecombe golf course, grateful for the gift of a seat. We then found ourselves walking along to Ditchling beacon with beautiful views. It was another busy location with lots of day walkers.
This section was long and straight, leading to Plumpton Plain before taking a sharp right towards Balmer Down. From here we knew we had only a mile or so to reach the campsite.
Tonight we were staying at Housedeam campsite, located just off the A27, and was right on the trail. We arrived around 4 pm and we were greeted on our arrival. There is a small shop on site supplying some key essentials which is open at set hours in the morning and the evening.
We have always wondered what the camping pods would be like, so we were really looking forward to finding out. The campsite itself was very spacious, however, there was a steep slope with very few sheltered places to camp. The pods were located at the top of the hill, with a couple of chairs outside to sit and enjoy the view.
The pod itself was very spacious, with electricity and a small heater. There were two single beds with basic mattresses, so you do need to bring your own sleeping equipment. Once inside the pod, it felt warm and cosy and cancelled the noise from the road.
The campsite has great facilities with plenty of toilets, hot showers and a washing up area.
For dinner, we ordered a subway from Justeat, ordering extra for the following day. The delivery driver did however have a little trouble finding us!
As we settled in for the evening the rain and high winds really picked up, grateful we were tucked up nice and warm without the worry of having to carry a heavy wet tent the following day.
Day 6 - Housedean Farm to Alfriston, 14.5 miles
Waking up after a comfortable nights sleep and no tent to worry about, we took our time getting ready.
During the night the weather warning had been cancelled which was music to our ears, however, it was still forecast to rain during the day, which we could handle.
It drizzled throughout the morning with some exposed sections being on the ridgeline. We walked over many hills, Swanborough Hill, Iford Hill, Front Hill, Mill Hill before coming down to a farm track. From here we walked towards Southease which is a lovely quaint village. There is a tap at the church in Southease.
The route then takes you across the railway line, shortly after crossing the train tracks we passed a YHA which had a cafe, so worth stopping for lunch if you don't have anything. They also had a lot of glamping options so maybe worth a look.
Crossing the A26 by a bridge, we decided to stop for lunch, ordering an extra subway in our takeaway turned out to be a great idea!
Setting off again we found ourselves slightly off route because we weren't paying attention. If you don't see an SDW sign, you probably aren't on the SDW! Getting back on track we continued on up towards the radio station to follow the ridgeline for many miles.
We walked into a gated field full of beautiful ponies, they saw us and must have thought we were there to deliver food so started to gather around us. Not wanting to get too friendly nor close we made a quick exit.
We were only a few miles out from Alfriston when the sky turned dark grey, unsure whether we would be lucky enough to miss the rain. Sadly not, coming down into Alfriston the heavens opened with torrential rain, with no shelter to stop until it passed, so we had to push on. By this point, the path had turned into a mini stream.
We have read that there is a campsite in Alfistron however it closed a few weeks prior to our arrival, which meant we had to book ourselves into a B&B/ pub, but we were not complaining! After all, this would be our last night on the trail.
We had pre-booked a room at Ye Olde Smugglers Inne nestled in the picturesque village of Alfriston. Enjoying a drink in the pub before checking into our room was just what we needed.
For dinner, of course, we ate downstairs in the pub! We were going to sleep well!
Day 7 - Alfriston to Eastbourne 11 miles
The final day of our SDW adventure and we were both looking forward to the day ahead. After a great nights sleep, we left fairly early with the aim to reach Eastbourne by early afternoon.
It was a little drizzly as we set off which made the first hour or so a little soggy and slippy walking next to Cuckmere River as we walked towards Litlington.
After briefly passing through Litlington and across several fields we found some shelter in the forest. The cover from the trees gave us some well-needed rest bite from the rain.
Passing Westdean we had a staircase to climb, too many steps we lost count, but there were a fair few! On reaching the top we approached a wall which we climbed over to be greeted with a lovely view of Cuckmere meanders.
Walking down to meet the road we had reached Exceat and the start of the Seven Sisters Country Park. Rather than going straight, the SDW route goes up and around before reaching Cuckmere Haven, an area of flood plains.
At this point, the weather started to change and we started to see glimpses of the sun and blue sky in the distance. We took some time to appreciate the views and soak in the milestone of reaching the sea.
From here the hard work really began, as we faced the Seven Sisters which are a series of chalk cliffs. It felt like we were in a Hiit session!
Taking our time to climb each section whilst capturing the landscape on the camera. However, no picture can do justice to this spectacular landscape.
After conquering the Seven Sisters we reached Birling Gap. There is a national trust cafe here, however, we did avoid it due to it being quite busy. Note the public toilets were closed here due to covid restrictions. We knew we were getting closer to a large town due to the sheer number of people.
We stopped for lunch shortly after Birling Gap, positioning ourselves overlooking the Seven Sisters, by far one of my favourite places we have had lunch.
We continued on towards Beachy Head with the infamous view of the lighthouse. By this point, it was extremely busy but we did our best to avoid the crowds.
If you are not careful you can lose the SDW signage, so keep an eye out for them on the right-hand side. The SDW route takes you away from the main thorofare, which we were thankful for, however, be careful with your footing as its a long prickly way down.
We now had Eastbourne within our sights and our journey was coming to an end. We knew that the end of the SDW was marked with an impressive wooden sign, however, we weren't too sure where this was. As we edged closer to the town we thought we may have missed it, however just as we were making our final walk down the slope to the main road and residential area, there it was!
On completing the SDW we felt a great sense of accomplishment and pride, content with our experience over the past 7 days.
A word of warning, no one ever tells you how much further you need to walk following the SDW! We had to get to the train station to make our way home, which is a further 1.3 miles from the end of the SDW trail. For us, this was a little soul-destroying as we hadn't prepared our minds for this extra distance. Looking back it's quite funny how we slowly shuffled to the train station.
Walking to the train station there were mixed emotions of contentment but also emptiness. What were we going to do now!
Getting to and from the trail - Winchester and Eastbourne are both accessible by public transport. We parked at Gatwick airport and then got the train to and from the start and end location. Note once you reach the endpoint at Eastbourne it is approx. 1.3 miles to the train station.
Tips -
Water - No need to take a water filter for two reasons:
1/ There are plenty of taps along the route.
2/ There is no open water sections to filter water from.
Food - Think ahead and plan your daily meals. There aren't that many places directly on route to get food from. Shops, restaurants etc are mainly in the local villages which are slightly off route, which will add to your daily mileage.
If you are planning on eating out, due to covid guidelines you may wish to book ahead.
Accommodation - Plan ahead. Due to covid, we did book all of our accommodation in advance to be on the safe side.
Route - The route is very well signposted so no need for lots of maps and guidebooks etc.
Terrain - The terrain is challenging underfoot in places due to the nature of the ground. Good comfortable footwear is a must!
Weather - Depending on the time of year you travel, be prepared for changing weather. There are some very exposed sections on the trail which can be nasty with high wind and rain.